Sometimes you can just walk into a new restaurant, drink in the surroundings, sit down, read the menu and wine list and say to yourself "this place is going to be a big hit."

That happened to me last Tuesday when I went to Fahrenheit, 2417 Professor St., in Cleveland's Tremont neighborhood. Two hours later, after experiencing the service and chef co-owner Rocco Whalen's food, there were no doubts about my first impression.

Whalen and his partners Kelly and Kim Repas are doing everything right. The interior, with its brick wall, artwork and burgundy tones, is classy and comfortable. The placement of tables-from the banquettes in the rear of the room to the tables in the main part and others lining a way to the semi-open kitchen-make the space appear larger than it is.

Whalen's reasonably priced menu features a good selection of pizza, pastas, appetizers, salads and entrees. Most entrees are priced in the mid-teens, with the most expensive (filet mignon with a sage and blue cheese sauce and crispy onions) coming in at $19.

As a former sous-chef for Wolfgang Puck, Whalen takes special price in his pizzas. He offers eight on the menu and will also feature nightly pizza specials. The options range from traditional versions, like the European-style artichoke, Nicoise olive, caramelized shallot and fresh herb pie, to new wave varieties topped with four cheeses and a little truffle oil.

The same goes for entrees. Fahrenheit's plump and juicy roasted chicken ($14 for a half) with buttermilk mashed potatoes and crispy leeks has a lovely lemon-rosemary flavor. The hanger steak with red wine shallot sauce and fresh pommes frites ($16.50) is a dish French bistros have been serving for a century-and for good reason. Or go all out and have the roasted halibut ($16) in a vermouth sauce topped with nice chunks of lobster meat and accompanies by fingerling potatoes and peppers.

There may be something not to like about Fahrenheit, but I haven't found it. There isn't a lot to quibble with when you find a restaurant so nicely laid out, with good food and fair prices.

©2006-2007 Fahrenheit